Ascent of Shulaps Peak on 2015-05-30

Climber: Grant Myers

Date:Saturday, May 30, 2015
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Shulaps Peak
    Location:Canada-British Columbia
    Elevation:2880 m / 9449 ft

Ascent Trip Report

Access: Jim Creek road where we parked at the start & walked from 4000' to 5300' in an hour to the right fork up east fork Jim Creek. Its possible to drive to the road split but its very steep & narrow, after the split it deteriorates to more of an ATV track. The east fork road has two creeks to ford but can find an easy step across on the first one. The 'road' ends at 6250' at a third creek crossing. We didn't cross here but followed an old faint trail for about 20 min. found at the back of the campsite at the crossing. Gave up on the trail & dropped a bit to the creek where there was a step across. We were now in the meadow basin at about 6500' & walked nice easy meadows with great views. Looked for camping but there was little flat & dry space, we ended up finding the ideal spot at a 7100' knoll on the north side of the basin. Enjoyed the sunset & views all around.

The next morning we were having some breakfast when a little mink ran by our camp, it was an animal I had never seen before, cool! Soon we set off for the summit & reached snowline at 7300', the snow had a solid crust. Since we hadn't brought crampons we went up the gentle slopes of Shulaps South (8862')on hard snow & easy scree. Nice views from here & we soon descended the north ridge on softening snow & class 2-3 rock with a few bits of routefinding to get to the col between it & Shulaps proper.

From the col we headed up the south side of Shulaps angling eastward on wide ledges as needed. One spot we probably could have went up but instead dropped a bit angling right to get to the easy slog up southeast slopes of the peak. We mostly avoided snow where possible at this point since it had softened & gave no support. The summit had wonderful views of surrounding (hundreds) of peaks and an old register dating back to 1942. It was chilly but we spent almost an hour here before heading off to Shulaps East 9167' along an amazing serpentine rock ridge. It was quite windy & cold but we found a spot out of the wind on top. Again, very nice views. We soon started back dropping more directly to along the south side of Shulaps where there was some difficulties due to steepness but we found a way through to get to below the col on its east side at about 8200'. We were lucky that the snow was reasonably firm & stable here since it was kind of steep with occasional cornices above: really nice & alpine here.

From the col it was a series of glissades & bad snow down to below the snow & meadow cruising to below the short climb up to camp. Beautiful evening though colder with ice on the tents in the morning (29 degrees F.).

The hike out on day 3 was easy & short with lots of time for the drive home.

Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:275 m / 900 ft
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Ski Poles
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:275 m / 900 ft
    Trailhead:2605 m / 8549 ft
Descent Statistics

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