Ascent of The Tooth on 2014-08-03

Climber: Patty Cokus

Date:Sunday, August 3, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:The Tooth
    Elevation:5604 ft / 1708 m

Ascent Trip Report

Jan Abendroth leader. Climbed with John...(one of Jan's past SIG people). LONG day but good. Met at Eastgate P&R at 4am. Left Alpental Snow Lake trailhead 5:30am. There was a search and rescue team looking for an injured hiker above Source Lake who had fallen off a cliff and spent the night. On the approach we passed various search teams and saw that two had located the hiker up on cliffs and were assessing. Eventually while we were climbing we heard a helicopter come in and found a youtube video of the airlift. Climbers trail wasn't hard to locate upon a rising left traverse of talus from Source Lake. Used a tarn below final talus field up to pineapple pass for water pumping on return.

I climbed in rock shoes while most used boots. Hardly any snow on the approach. Once up left gully of Pineapple pass, head down on other side (steep dirt,veg) and then over and back up a 3rd class gully to base of climb. Room enough for packs. I was third rope team with Jan first. First team started climbing maybe 8am? Jan was on summit at 11am I think and I arrived at 1pm. Up to first tree to belay, then for second pitch went past the chockstone with slings up to another tree. While belaying at top of 2nd pitch 2 free soloers came up - Chad from SBP and his boss. Chatted a bit. Our 3rd pitch we went left to a tree and then up. Used and needed pro unlike what others had said would be a scramble (class 2?) pitch. Hmmm.... Then for 4th pitch apparently didn't do either the flake or catwalk but something in-between? Found it a bit scary and challenging. Started with kind of a flake and then moved left on narrow rising ledges. Got to a point where had to mantle up onto a flat ledge with lots of loose small to med rocks on it. Had a gold cam about feet height? Willed in a tiny purple nut into a small horizontal crack that wasn't a good one but just for psychological help. Went up, then down a step, then back up and did it. Moved left on the wider ledge with rock on it to a slightly awkward right slanting body crack and up to the giant rock with slings on the summit. Apparently we climbed the rap route? Did rap the route we climbed. Rappelling took longer than the climb...5 hours? Did double rope rap from top giant rock with slings down the way we climbed up. If on summit looking at the rock we came up to and rappeled from did see a tree down and to the left of us (that is the flake route?) Arrived at the tree we belayed at for 4th pitch. Rapped on 70m rope down to the chockstone. Double rope rapped from chockstone to base. Jan as last was worried about getting the rope stuck so stopped at the original tree we belayed at for top of 1st pitch. Pulled the rope and it got stuck. After trying unsuccessfully to get it he had to prusik up to it and dislodge the stuck knot. He then setup a single rope rap from that original tree belay at top of 1st pitch. We in meantime used 70m rope to rap down pineapple pass to a crap sling for an anchor maybe 3/4 down which another team earlier in the day setup as a bail out for when they tried to ascend via this gully and then decided it wasn't a good idea. Used this anchor (after adding another sling trying to stabilize) with a single rope to finish getting down. Whilst waiting for all of us to rap off this another person threw ropes down which showered us with some luckily small rocks. One rapped down and then they waited on our request for others.

Back to cars about 7:30pm. Rapping was definitely the crux of the day for us.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Rock Climb
Ascent Statistics
    Route:South Face (led) 4th pitch Jan's variation up to b
Descent Statistics

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