Ascent of Mount Maude on 2014-08-17

Climber: Kristian Kalsing

Others in Party:Ida Vincent
Date:Sunday, August 17, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Carpool
Peak:Mount Maude
    Elevation:9040 ft / 2755 m

Ascent Trip Report

We hiked up to Ice Lakes the day before. The south end of the larger lake has a lovely area for camping right next to the water. No snow left in this area.
We left camp at 4 am and stood on the summit at 2 pm. The approach from camp to the base of the climb took longer than expected. None of the four of us had been on the mountain before so we spent some extra time on the route finding. We missed the notch immediately east of Marmot Pyramid and dropped onto the Entiat Glacier through the next notch east. There was also a time-consuming rappel (see below) on the traverse towards the North Face. We could have avoided the rappel by descending further, but that option had steep and exposed crevasse terrain this time of year, so not sure it would have been any faster. Roping on the Entiat Glacier is definitely recommended since traversing to the North Face goes through multiple areas with many wide open crevasses. Where the north ridge of the Marmot Pyramid meets the Entiat Glacier there is a rappel station allowing the traverse to continue without losing too much elevation.
The North Face route itself was straightforward mostly being a steep snow climb easily protected with pickets on the steeper sections. There were a few patches of ice where we could get screws in. Most of the route could easily be done standing but a few shorter sections had hard snow and ice where front-pointing was the best option. Towards the top of the route, the snow conditions improved dramatically and it was easy to kick deep solid steps. With the exception of one short section with exposed rock at about halfway, there was continuous snow from the base to the summit.
By far the biggest danger on this route is the frequent rock fall at this time of year. In particular, we had one instance of a fridge-sized rock thundering down and intersecting the lower part of the climbing route. One climber in our party saved his own life by diving into a moat a split second before the boulder flew past where he was standing!
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Base of the North Face route (2014-08-17). Photo by Kristian Kalsing.
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Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:8565 ft / 2610 m
    Elevation Loss:8565 ft / 2610 m
    Distance:22.1 mi / 35.6 km
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Stream Ford, Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Partly Cloudy
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:7763 ft / 2366 m
    Extra Loss:2289 ft / 697 m
    Distance:13.9 mi / 22.4 km
    Route:North Face
    Trailhead:Phelps Creek Trailhead  3566 ft / 1086 m
    Time Up:16 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:6276 ft / 1913 m
    Extra Gain:802 ft / 244 m
    Distance:8.2 mi / 13.2 km
    Route:South Slopes
    Trailhead:Phelps Creek Trailhead  3566 ft / 1086 m
    Time Down:6 Hours 20 Minutes
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Kristian Kalsing
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

Other Photos

Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Halfway up the North Face route (2014-08-17). Photo by Kristian Kalsing.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
From the top of the North Face route (2014-08-17). Photo by Kristian Kalsing.
Click here for larger-size photo.

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