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Ascent of Mount Logan on 2014-06-21

Climber: Sean Albert

Date:Saturday, June 21, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Logan
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:9087 ft / 2769 m

Ascent Trip Report

Day 1 Gain 2880ft. Loss 3020ft.

Stan, Albert, and I met at 65th P and R at 5 am on Friday morning, sorted some gear and headed for the Marblemount ranger station to grab our permit. We drove through Oso, a very sobering scene. Arrived at the ranger station right at 7am and then headed for the Easy Pass TH. We left the TH at 9am and made Easy Pass around noon after loosing the trail in the snow and traversing a little to far North. Having never been to the pass we didn't traverse far enough West and didn't pick up the trail until a ways down the Southwest side of the pass. The switchbacks were almost completely snow free and made travel down to Fisher Creek easy. We continued down the trail into the forest and crossed over the creek on a great bridge shortly after Cosho camp. We followed the relatively flat trail down to the old log bridge over a dry creek 3600ft, (creek is slightly West now), this is a great marker for the off trail portion of the route. We had planned to camp at the 5200ft. lake higher up, but opted to bivy near the trail and make the second day longer. Arrived at the turn off from the trail around 3 pm.

Day 2 Gain 6500ft. Loss 6500ft.

We started moving at 5am, staying on the East side of the creek, which is a steep waterfall at times. A nice game trail on a ridge led to some blocking cliff bands that we were able to get through pretty easily, via some steep terrain. We were all glad to have day packs on this stretch.
We arrived at the 5200ft. lake around 6 am and put on the pons. From the lake we headed on a mostly Southerly bearing using a great photo from Steph A. and Brian W's TR up towards Christmas Tree col. We weaved through and avoided some steeper rock and ice sections on the ascent, the col is not visible until you are essentially at it. We arrived at the col around 8:30am to spectacular views of Logan and the Banded Glacier/Lake, as well as the 500 ft. we would loose on route down to the lake. We took the larger most obvious notch to the West, but on our way down realized the skinny notch to the East had an easier down climb on snow free scree, (no front pointing/face in down climbing on rock hard snow required via the Eastern weakness). We made Banded Lake around 9am which is much larger than the map indicates. We approached and started climbing the glacier taking easy snow slopes on climbers left until we couldn't ascend any further (a cool wind formed snow arete here). We roped up and Stan led out staying close to the rock, up and around to the Douglas/Banded col. The glacier was very relaxed, we didn't pass any open cracks. At this time we spotted another party above us approaching the summit ridge, (a mounties party and some friends of ours who approached via the Douglas). We unroped at the rock on the ridge and waited at the false summit as they enjoyed the summit. We soon traded places, chatting along the way. The summit block was 4th class with some serious exposure, making the easy climbing feel a little harder. Summit around noon, to spectacular views into the ice cap, Forbidden, Buckner, Goode, etc. We left the summit around 1pm and headed back to the col. The snow softened up nicely for perfect plunging down the Banded. A slog back up to Christmas Tree col, and down to camp at 4:30pm.

Day 3 Gain 3020ft. Loss 2880ft.

Left camp/bivy at 6am and reached the TH just before noon. Milkshakes at Cascadian Farms!
Click on photo for original larger-size version.
Stan standing in Christmas Tree col on our return from the top via the Banded Glacier. Banded Lake seen below the glacier, as well as the Douglas/Banded col. (2014-06-21). Photo by Sean Albert.
Click here for larger-size photo.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:12407 ft / 3781 m
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:12407 ft / 3781 m
    Extra Loss:7000 ft / 2133 m
    Route:Banded/Easy Pass
    Trailhead:3680 ft / 1121 m
Descent Statistics
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip


 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Sean Albert
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. Peakbagger.com accepts NO resposibility or liability from use of this data.

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