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Ascent of Guye Peak on 2014-04-06

Climber: Jon Schillios

Date:Sunday, April 6, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Carpool
Peak:Guye Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:5168 ft / 1575 m

Ascent Trip Report

We left the cars at 0700, crossing the main road and going beneath the overpass to the TH. We were briefly on the PCT before branching off to the east and heading up with the river as a handrail on our left. We crossed over the river on a log bridge, and went around the base of Guye until we reached the ridge we needed to climb.

It was very erie because we could hear the avalanche cannons going off at Snoqualmie Pass one after the other, and heard some of the other peaks in the area let loose with avalanches.
We gauged our level of danger to be low in our particular area and continued onward.

We reached the northern most of the 3 peaks and set up a roped rappel off the largest tree down into the chute. From here, traversed quickly across underneath the cornice on the north peak, and then ascended up to the middle peak.

From here it was a thin ridge of snow walking between the middle and southern-most true summit. We used 4 ropes for this process.

Unfortunately, part of our group was down under the northern-most peak when part of the cornice sloughed off and came down on them. It pulled out the deadman they had set and anchored to, and swept them 20' or so down the gulley before the additional pro stopped their movement. Nobody was hurt, but nerves were shaken, and the rest of the group decided to stop coming through and wait for us to return.

The descent was uneventful and fast moving, and we made it back to the TH at 1645.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:2146 ft / 654 m
    Elevation Loss:2146 ft / 654 m
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope
    Weather:Cold, Breezy, Low Clouds
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:2146 ft / 654 m
    Route:Snoqualmie Pass -> basin -> North Peak -> Middle P
    Trailhead:Snoqualmie Pass Ski Lot  3022 ft / 921 m
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:2146 ft / 654 m
    Trailhead:Snoqualmie Pass Ski Lot  3022 ft / 921 m



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