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Ascent of Mount Stickney on 2014-06-01

Climber: Dan Shoe

Others in Party:Ansel Wald
Evan
Mike Braun----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Sunday, June 1, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Mount Stickney
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:5280 ft / 1609 m

Ascent Trip Report

We started from the Junction of the Olney Creek road and the Sultan Basin Road because the Olney Creek road was gated. The Olney Creek road drops a little, then angles to the right for a long flat section paralleling Olney Creek. The road has many places where the USFS put in berms to further discourage anyone who managed to drive a vehicle past the gate. The biggest barrier of all was a boulder about 7 feet across in the middle of the road. After a switchback the road levels out, and crosses a very slow moving creek. There were some small logs bridging the creek, and I was the one who stepped on the slippery spot on the biggest log and fell in. I said a couple of cusses and changed into dry socks. From here the road gained altitude then on to a higher level spot. At one place along the road I found a couple dozen tufts of fur from a black bear. I wondered what was going on there - a bear grooming session? At about 3550' the road became covered with snow. The road leveled again, then dropped a bit to cross a fairly substantial stream at around 3660'. We crossed the stream, which had a steep snow slope on the far side, up which we kicked steps. Ansel had thought we had to go farther based on a decades old memory of a previous trip that was not successful due to heavy fog. Note spur on GPS Track. We crossed back over the stream, and ascended thru forest, then over a snowed in meadow and frozen over One Acre Lake, and up some more to reach a basin.

GPS Track URL from Mike Braun
http://adventures.garmin.com/en-US/by/michael-braun-seattle/mt-stickney-scramble-2014-06-01/#overview


We had a debate on routes upon reaching the basin below the final ridge. We decided to go up the snow finger recommended in all the route descriptions. The snow was good for climbing - consolidated enough not to From here we traversed the ridge until a place where it became very narrow, with long steep cliffs on both sides. Ansel took the 8mm prussic cord that Evan had the foresight to bring, and set up a fixed hand line with slings around rocks at each end. Once we were past this crux it was a 50' walk to the summit. No register was found. By now the clouds had dissipated so we had a very good view. We could see the Spada Lake Reservoir and the Skykomish Valley and the Gold Bar area. The sun stayed around for the entire descent. We glissaded all except the top of the snow finger to get back down into the basin. We didn't start the glissade from the very top to avoid the possibility of falling into a moat that was starting to open up about 50" below the top of the snowfield. On the return trip in the forest, almost to the road we found an ice ax which Ansel kept.
The trip took a long time, 11 hours 45 minutes car to car, due to a lot of stops to discuss navigation, setting up the fixed line, and photos. Once down in Gold Bar, we took some photos looking back at Mt. Stickney. We had dinner at the Buzz Inn in Monroe.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:4100 ft / 1249 m
    Grade/Class:3
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Bushwhack, Snow on Ground, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope, Ski Poles
    Nights Spent:0 nights away from roads
    Weather:Pleasant, Partly Cloudy
cloudy then clearing
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:4100 ft / 1249 m
    Extra Loss:200 ft / 60 m
    Distance:7 mi / 11.3 km
    Trailhead:1816  1380 ft / 420 m
    Time Up:0 Days 7 Hours 0 Minutes
Descent Statistics



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