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Ascent of Guye Peak on 2014-06-01

Climber: Evan Battaglia

Date:Sunday, June 1, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Guye Peak
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:5168 ft / 1575 m

Ascent Trip Report

Got to the N Peak without any difficulty. When I was here in January, the gully on the left (E) just north of the N Peak was completely snow-filled. This time, it was slightly melted out with a side moat that looked like it didn't go down all the way. We probably could have gone this way, using a tree as an anchor and using pickets along with way (and up the next gully). Instead, we took a route I had devised (but did not execute for lack of rope) last time I got to the N summit in January. The route is as follows:

10-15 feet below the N summit we traversed around the summit for about 100 ft, reaching a outcropping on the ridge again. From here slinged a pretty stable horn ~8 ft from the edge and rappelled down about 40 ft to the notch between the N and middle summits, from whence the middle summit is easily attainable. We left the rope here and continued on. On the way back, we both top-roped this section. Is is straight-forward class 4/low class 5, having just one move about 5.4.

Between the middle and S summits we took a small gully to the left and headed back up to the ridge in a moat. However, on the way back it was apparent that the face off the middle summit was class 3, so we easily scrambled up that.

I call it the "Hidden Ridge" route (as from the North summit the rappel route ridge is hidden by the next outcropping)

Gear needed:
30m light rope for rapping and toproping, 20 ft webbing (or cordalette and double sling)
Summary Total Data
    Route:North Route, "Hidden Ridge" variation
    Route Conditions:
Exposed Scramble
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope



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