Ascent of Unicorn Peak on 2013-10-20

Climber: Lucas Johnson

Others in Party:John Peters and Casey Gish
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Sunday, October 20, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Unicorn Peak
    Elevation:6971 ft / 2124 m

Ascent Trip Report

Followed maintained trail from Snow Lake trailhead to south side of Snow Lake, then scrambled southwest across scree field to steep gully. Scrambled up (south) gully to snow field. Followed snow field south and then east to ridge that leads to Unicorn Peak. Transition from snow field to ridge was very steep and was rappelled on descent. Followed ridge north to summit. Final pitch to summit was approximately 30' of vertical, trad climbing. Used hexentrics and nuts as protection (2" and smaller). Clipped into existing bolt located approximately half way up route. Condition of bolt is sketchy. Rappelled off of existing anchor on summit (carabiner duct taped shut and attached to multiple slings). Followed ascent route back to trailhead.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:2426 ft / 739 m
    Elevation Loss:54 ft / 16 m
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope, Ski Poles
    Weather:Cool, Calm, Clear
Clear and sunny day
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:2426 ft / 739 m
    Route:Continued south from Snow Lake
    Trailhead:Snow Lake Trailhead  4545 ft / 1385 m
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:54 ft / 16 m
    Route:Reversed route up
    Trailhead:Snow Lake Trailhead  6917 ft / 2108 m

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