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Ascent of The Tooth on 2014-01-23

Climber: Jaime McCandless

Date:Thursday, January 23, 2014
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:The Tooth
    Elevation:5604 ft / 1708 m

Ascent Trip Report

We took the standard route up South Fork river, the notch south of Pineapple Pass, and climbed the South Face. On the way down we hit some speedbumps with a stuck rope (and had to prussik back up to get it loose). However, the real surprise was that after rappelling down Pineapple Pass, we hit the end of our rope still most of the way up an extremely steep, icy slope with nowhere to set an anchor (and no ice pro). We slowly and carefully downclimbed with crampons and one ice ax each. I suppose in the summer when most people climb, there are either other rappel anchors, softer snow, or just scree. For winter ascents, be warned!
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:2304 ft / 703 m
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Ice Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:2304 ft / 703 m
    Route:South Fork River, South Face
    Trailhead:Alpental  3300 ft / 1005 m
    Time Up:6 Hours 15 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Route:Pineapple Pass
    Time Down:6 Hours 0 Minutes

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