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Ascent of Mount Thielsen on 2013-07-11

Climber: Mark Smith

Others in Party:Amber Smith
Nancy Kooy
Date:Thursday, July 11, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Thielsen
    Elevation:9182 ft / 2798 m

Ascent Trip Report

The original trail from the standard TH near Diamond Lake to the PCT was closed in 2007(?) due to an impressive blow-down that took out many hundreds of trees. A trail crew was rebuilding the original trail as of July, 2013. After crossing the PCT, follow the obvious climbers trail southeast. Higher up, the trail has many threads. If in doubt, I would stay left lower down and stay right higher up. As you swing around the right side of the peak, a short but easy 3rd/4th chute leads to comfortable ledges below the summit pinnacle. I've read descriptions of the final 80 feet as everything from 3rd Class to 5.2. Unless I missed an easier route, the summit pinnacle is NOT 3rd Class. We stayed toward the right side of the east face and found the difficulty to be solid 4th Class. Going up is not a problem, but those not comfortable on 4th Class would probably find the downclimb to be frightening. I took a 90' rope which was just long enough to belay the others in my party, who then rapelled down after summitting. The last "pitch" is on good quality rock and helps make for one of the best alpine peaks in Oregon.
Summary Total Data
    Grade/Class:4th Class
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)

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