Ascent of Kaleetan Peak on 2013-08-07

Climber: Sarah Holt

Date:Wednesday, August 7, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Kaleetan Peak
    Elevation:6259 ft / 1907 m

Ascent Trip Report

East Face Variation: Departed Denny Creek TH at 7:15am, reached Melakwa Lake by 9:15. Continued up along(and through) the stream toward Melakwa Pass. Trail is difficult to follow here - just keep following the stream and you'll end up in the right area. We decided to take the East route, which would probably be better left for early season. It involved scrambling up a steep, very loose talus gully on your left. This was the worst part of the climb. Not exposed or particularly dangerous, just very slow and tedious. Took us about an hour to get up this gully. Probably a great route when snow-covered though. About 40 feet of sketchy 4th class brings you to the top of the gully. From here, continue upward another .25mi and 800 vertical ft to the summit. The summit is much closer than it looks from here! Probably only took us another 30-40 minutes to the top. Trail is marked with cairns, a little difficult to follow in some spots, but not bad. For the final ascent, we chose a variation coming up a rocky class 3-4 gully to the right of the main route. Fun climbing on mostly sound rock. Would recommend. The main route is probably class 1-2. We were on the summit by 12:30. Great views!
Descended the main route, a climbers trail which takes you all the way back to Melakwa Lake, by way of Kaleetan's south ridge. This trail actually looses and gains a lot of elevation and is not terribly direct, but hey, it's a trail. It takes you past Point 5700 so you can bag that on the way. Saw and heard a couple of bald eagles on the way down. All in all, a really fun climb.
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