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Ascent of Forbidden Peak on 2013-07-13

Climber: Sean Albert

Date:Saturday, July 13, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Forbidden Peak
    Elevation:8815 ft / 2686 m

Ascent Trip Report

Two day trip with Stan, Jess and Greg. Stan graciously went the Marblemount ranger station on Thursday to get a Boston Basin permit for us. We all met a the ranger station on Friday morning then headed up to the T.H. Hiked up to the high camp above the toilet and managed to find two dryish tent sights. Hung out and watch the sky get black, as there was a 30% chance of rain and snow above 8000ft. We all ate dinner, crawled into bed and set our alarms for 3:30am. When mine went off, I peeked outside and we were still socked in. We decided to have a look higher up as the weather was predicted to be good. Rolled out of camp at 4:20am. As we approached the snow finger Greg decided to call it a day after feeling the affects of a recent bike vs. open door accident. Stan, Jess and I roped up and headed up the gully, crossing over a quickly deteriorating snow finger, probably only has a few more days before a gap opens up. We made the notch around 7:20am and stashed pickets, axes, crampons and boots. Again we tied into one rope, I coiled about 20 meters and we spaced out evenly to start simul climbing, Stan led out. We managed to essentially simul the whole route, going left around the tower crux pitch. Made the summit around 9:30am. Ate some food, took some pictures and signed the register. Had the summit to ourselves until and climbing ranger and another climber topped out from the East ridge. Down we went, Stan let out again, simul climbing again until we reached the top of the tower crux. We rapped it (very unstable) to another rap station, did another rap to some scrambling on the North side of the ridge, then a little more simul climbing led us back to the notch. Grabbed gear and booted back up. We scrambled down to a snow patch and over it to a large mound/horn with an orange cordelette, above the late season climbing gullies. Five full single rope rappels staying on the rib until the last rap got us onto the snow below the sketchy part of the snow finger. Back to camp about 3:30pm, 11 hours camp to camp. Some traffic on the route, but no back ups, lots of parties doing the T.F. traverse. Back to the cars at 6:15pm.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:5615 ft / 1711 m
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:5615 ft / 1711 m
    Route:West Ridge
    Trailhead:3200 ft / 975 m
Descent Statistics
    Route:West Ridge

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