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Ascent of The Castle on 2013-06-22

Climber: Kevin DeFields

Date:Saturday, June 22, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:The Castle
    Elevation:6440 ft / 1962 m

Ascent Trip Report

Started climb at 6:30AM to take advantage of cooler conditions and avoid other parties on Pinnacle Peak. Ascended fairly firm snow all of the way to the Pinnacle/Castle col. After crossing to the south side of the ridge we traversed through softening snow to the base of Pinnacle Peak. Scrambled to the summit where we spent about half an hour before preparing to descend. Set up a hand line on a 30m rope and prusiked down the first half of the descent. There were no good options for setting up a second anchor at that point so all party members down climbed the rest of the way. We were down and back to the col before running into any other parties headed for Pinnacle.

After a very short break at the base of Pinnacle we traversed back across to the east side of Castle. All other party members ascended the gully and over the ridge unaided. We dropped our packs at the base of the Castle to make the summit climb. Michael B. belayed me up the summit block. I used about 5 pieces of pro on the way up including one small cam, several mid sized nuts and one sling around a horn about half way up. Anchored the rope with a pair of slings around a chockstone at the summit and the rest of the party prusiked up with minimal difficulty. (See Skills notes) From the top, we could see a couple of parties on Pinnacle and more on their way up the snowfield.

The rappel station had a sling of 1" webbing and a perlon sling with one rappel ring. We added a second 1" sling and a second rappel ring to the setup before rappelling down. Glissaded over good snow most of the way back to the trailhead.

There is a good spot to transition from the snow and over the col towards the east side of the ridgleine. Both the Pinnacle and Castle summit blocks are completely snow free and in great condition. Glissade route down the east slopes of The Castle is great.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:290 ft / 88 m
    Quality:5 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Rope, Ski Poles
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:290 ft / 88 m
    Route:East face
    Trailhead:Pinnacle/Castle col  6150 ft / 1874 m
Descent Statistics
Ascent Part of Trip: Pinnacle Peak / The Castle

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Pinnacle Peak2013-06-22
2The Castle2013-06-22
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Kevin DeFields
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO resposibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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