Ascent of Castle Peaks-Middle Peak on 2013-01-12

Climber: BMS 914

Others in Party:Anji Cerney
Anji Cerney
Austin Hubbuch
Reza L
Harlan S
Ali H
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Saturday, January 12, 2013
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:4x4 Vehicle
Peak:Castle Peaks-Middle Peak
    Elevation:5830 ft / 1776 m

Ascent Trip Report

Part one of our trip to the Castle Peaks was an ascent of Dove Benchmark. This one starts at the end of a dirt road, then skirts up some ridges, where the climb up the summit block begins. Harlan climbed up the Class 4 crack to the right, as did Dan Young. It didn't look too tough. Dan, a pro climbing guide, went up, set up a top rope, and top belayed the rest of us up. I opted for the wall to the left of the crack, as it looked more challenging and I was on top rope and wearing rock shoes anyway. The climbing isn't that difficult there either, though the holds aren't huge. One needs to beware of the rock coming loose in places on either the crack or the wall I went up. None came off on me during my climb. On the way down, some of our party opted to downclimb using a handline, while the rest of us just rappelled off the anchor at the top of the climb section. I opted to rappel simply because I enjoy it, but would have been comfortable downclimbing if we had no gear. We then went on to North Castle Butte.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:1067 ft / 323 m
    Elevation Loss:438 ft / 131 m
    Distance:2.8 mi / 4.5 km
    Grade/Class:Class 4
    Quality:5 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Open Country, Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
    Weather:Cold, Calm, Clear
Clear and chilly
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:1045 ft / 317 m
    Extra Loss:190 ft / 57 m
    Distance:2.6 mi / 4.2 km
    Route:South Face
    Trailhead:End of Jeep track off Hart Mine Rd  4975 ft / 1516 m
    Time Up:1 Hours 46 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:248 ft / 74 m
    Extra Gain:22 ft / 6 m
    Distance:0.2 mi / 0.3 km
    Route:South Face
    Trailhead:Base of summit block near cave  5604 ft / 1708 m
    Time Down:13 Minutes
Ascent Part of Trip: Castle Peaks

Complete Trip Sequence:
1Castle Peaks-Middle Peak2013-01-12 a
2Castle Peaks2013-01-12 b
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by BMS 914
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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