Ascent to Gannett Peak-ridge atop Gooseneck Glacier on 2012-07-03

Climber: Walter Blume

Others in Party:Kevin O'Laughlin -- Trip Report or GPS Track
Doug Robinson
Rich Fujita
Jeff Elmore
Steve Telck
Billy Frieden
Brett Governatti
Date:Tuesday, July 3, 2012
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Point Reached:Gannett Peak - ridge atop Gooseneck Glacier
    Elevation:13420 ft / 4090 m
    Remaining Elevation:384 ft / 117 m (12% left to go)

Ascent Trip Report

Climbed with group of 8, which significantly slowed our progress such that I did not reach the ridgeline above Gooseneck glacier until 1:20 pm.

The snowbridge on Dinwoody glacier was intact, though only maybe 6 feet wide. We crossed this roped.

I found significant wind gusts on the Gooseneck ridge, maybe up to 40 mph, one of the gusts fairly lifted me out of a crouch as it caught my daypack and pulled me sideways ten feet. The peak was snow covered save for the very summit and a small section on the left (southern) section. I could see that the snow was very steep at the southern end of the summit. We had planned to do this part of the ascent roped, but the more experienced party members were not yet at the ridgeline, indeed the member with the rope did not ascend this high due to concerns about another of our members who was in the throes of altitude sickness.

Based on my lack of experience descending such gradients, concerns about wind, and the lateness of the day I decided not to ascend. Two of our party (Doug and Kevin) did ascend unroped and summitted successfully. I was told by them that the summit ridge was actually calm, but that the snow conditions (slushy) were dangerous. One of the two who summitted told me that he stepped in a hole to his waistline, and was quite concerned about falling into even deeper holes as he descended.

Because of the lateness of the day, we did not actually get back to our base camp until 12:30 a.m, descending in darkness through a long boulder field. Fortunately, none of our party had any serious injuries, though one suffered greatly from altitude sickness.
This was the crux of an arduous 6 day backpacking trip using the Glacier trail approach. I gained alot of good experience on this very challenging peak. Hopefully I'll get another chance in the future to actually summit.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:2920 ft / 890 m
    Elevation Loss:2920 ft / 890 m
    Distance:8.2 mi / 13.2 km
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:5 nights away from roads
    Weather:Pleasant, Windy, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:2920 ft / 890 m
    Distance:4.1 mi / 6.6 km
    Route:Gooseneck Glacier - Glacier Trail
    Trailhead:10500 ft / 3200 m
    Time Up:9 Hours 45 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:2920 ft / 890 m
    Distance:4.1 mi / 6.6 km
    Route:Gooseneck Glacier
    Trailhead:10500 ft / 3200 m
    Time Down:10 Hours 47 Minutes
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Walter Blume
Click Here for a Full Screen Map
Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

Download this GPS track as a GPX file

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