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Ascent of Marmolejo on 2012-02-22

Climber: Tom Brown

Other People:

Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain

Date:

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Ascent Type:

Successful Summit Attained

Motorized Transport to Trailhead:

Car

Peak:

Marmolejo

Location:

Argentina/Chile

Elevation:

6107 m / 20039 ft

Ascent Trip Report

Five nights on the mountain, first night was in the Plantat refuge at 10,300'. Approached through the col northwest of San Jose Norte and descended into the valley immediately south of the peak. Perfect cloudless day on Feb. 22, winds were not too bad on the summit. Climbed mostly on dry ground, but crampons and an axe were definitely necessary. Saw no evidence of other parties/old camps whatsoever; this is not a popular route, likely because you have to go back up about 1,400' before you can go back down again on the main San Jose trail. I went this way to avoid crevasses as I was climbing alone. There is no trail after you leave the San Jose trail above 5,000m.

Summary Total Data

Elevation Gain:

3974 m / 13039 ft

Distance:

41.8 km / 26 mi

Route:

south face

Trailhead:

Puente Colina 2133 m / 7000 ft

Grade/Class:

Quality:

8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)