Ascent of Piz Lagrev on 2011-09-02

Climber: Rob Woodall

Others in Party:Dave Kenyon
Andrew Tibbetts
Date:Friday, September 2, 2011
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Piz Lagrev
    Elevation:3165 m / 10384 ft

Ascent Trip Report

To be completed...

We climbed this peak the day after Wildspitze, with Dave Kenyon, mountain guide from UK xxx. There is a large layby on the S side of the main road just E of Silviplani xxx at xxx and we slept here the night before.
We left at 0700. It's best to keep inside the crash barrier until past a drainage channel then descend to the riverside meadow and walk downstream about 150m to reach a track which comes down from the main road (xxx it may be possible to park here - room for 1 or 2 cars). We follow the track across the stream then in about 150m find a sign indicating Lac xxx to the R. This well made path zigzags steeply uphill through pine trees, then the gradient eases and the path follows a rough granite ridge with several small pools, and fine views.
At 0830 we reach the Lac. It is unclear whether it's best to go L or R round the lake. Probably most visitors just sit and enjoy the view!
From the lake outflow (xxx) we went L round the SW shore. There was a fair bit of awkward bouldery ground. Eventually we reached a good path coming from the R - this had apparently come round the R side of the lake (we used it on the way back although it isn't much easier).
A signboard is reached (xxx) and a cairn (xxx). The glacier is now in view and is reached via a slightly descending traverse across awkward shifting boulders. We fit crampons and traverse the dry glacier. Later the gradient steepens and there are a few small crevasses so we rope up. We exit the glacier at its top LH end. This involves steep ice and scree (in descent we get back onto the glacier nearer the middle).
Above the Lagrev glacier is a stony col. We leave our glacier gear here and make a short ascent R. The summit of Lagrev is at last visible. To reach it we cross a short narrow arete (YDS2+), then at Pt xxx turn L and follow the ridge (some mild scrambling, YDS2+) to the summit (unmarked except for a small trig bolt). There are impressive drops on either side; scrambling a few more metres the end of the ridge is reached, with a fine view down to the other valley.
We spend 30 mins in the sunshine identifying peaks including Bernina which we climbed a few days ago, Caldera and nearby Ot. We then head down. We take an easier line onto the glacier: from the col we angle down L on scree then easy rock to gain moderately angled snow. Once off the glacier we follow the trail we discovered earlier. This follows terminal moraine which ends abruptly. The easiest descent is from xxx, down a gully. From here, head for a cairn xxx. It would be possible to follow the NE shore of the lake. However, we took a higher line, crossing a low ridge and descending rock and scree (sketchy path) to join the main trail at xxx. The walk out seemed quite long in the afternoon heat. We were back at the cars at 3pm. We headed over the pass and had a final meal and drink with Dave Kenyon, who had also taken us up three good Ultras during the week.

Piz Lagrev photos

Our day finished with a night ascent of the decidedly non-alpine Ballon de Guebwiller.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:1254 m / 4118 ft
    Extra Gain:49 m / 164 ft
    Distance:17 km / 10.6 mi
    Route:NE ridge, Normql route
    Trailhead:above Silvaplana  2009 m / 6594 ft
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Open Country, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Guide
    Weather:Hot, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Time Up:4 Hours 30 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Time Down:3 Hours 

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