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Ascent of Medetsiz Tepe on 2011-07-20

Climber: Rob Woodall

Others in Party:Ken Jones
Adrian Rayner
Andrew Tibbetts
Richard Tibbetts
Bob Packard
Ian Charters
Pauline Charters
----Only Party on Mountain
Date:Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Medetsiz Tepe
    Location:Turkey
    Elevation:3524 m / 11562 ft

Ascent Trip Report

We climbed this the day after Kizilkaya (Demirkazik) , with Recep Ince from Aladaglar Camping. It is 1h30 drive from Aladaglar to the trailhead, an abandoned hotel construction SW of the summit. To reach it, turn S off the D750 at N37.52053 E34.57964, immediately turn L again then follow the narrow road to N37.45749 E34.61452, turn S here onto an unpaved road. This should be driveable in an ordinary car although we were in Recep's 4x4. We drove past the hotel structure (intended for skiers but never finished) and parked on the meadow near where the track becomes a trail, N37.41394 E34.56541, 2346m.

The trail initially climbs fairly steeply then more gently, heading for a lake. Well before the lake we forked L on a faint trail (see saved GPS track) through impressive limestone scenery, descended then crossed a meadow to join another good trail which comes from the lake and heads for Medetsiz. The route leads into a stony couloir, initially at an easy gradient but becoming steeper and looser scree before the long ascent ends at a 3234m saddle, N37.39746 E34.59241. Here we rested and enjoyed our first view of our goal, a sharp peak at the end of a graceful ridge. A trail crosses the stony hillside ahead, descending slightly (some easy rock can either be crossed at YDS2+ or it is possible to cross the scree below it, YDS2). The ridge is just as good as it looked from the picnic saddle, with about 230m of additional ascent along the way. The trail is obvious until the final ascent, which initially crosses the steep SW face then (less obviously) head straight up the ridge to the summit (E cairn is N37.39317 E34.63111, 3527m).

There are 2 cairns 35m apart, identical in elevation as far as we could tell from Bob Packard's hand level. Bob arrived to a chorus of Happy Birthday - it was his 75th, and rather neatly his 150th Ultra - the applause very well deserved.

We headed back along the ridge to the picnic saddle then after a short break we descended the couloir (mostly scree but with plenty of slabby outcrops to look out for) then hiked back out. We were back at Aladaglar Camping just in time for a 9pm meal - a long but superb mountain day. After a rest day, our trip continued with an attempt on Erciyes Dagi.

Timings: trailhead 0710, picnic saddle 1200, summit 1345-1400, picnic saddle 1630, trailhead 1820.

Medetsiz photos

GPS track to follow.

Logistics: we were a group of 8 on an Ultra bagging trip arranged through Anatolian Adventures. They arranged accommodation, transport and a local mountain guide.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:1638 m / 5375 ft
    Elevation Loss:1638 m / 5375 ft
    Distance:16.1 km / 10 mi
    Grade/Class:YDS 2
    Quality:10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail
    Gear Used:
Guide
    Weather:Pleasant, Breezy, Partly Cloudy
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:1408 m / 4620 ft
    Extra Loss:230 m / 755 ft
    Distance:8.1 km / 5 mi
    Route:from west
    Trailhead:near abandoned ski hotel structure  2346 m / 7697 ft
    Time Up:6 Hours 40 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:1408 m / 4620 ft
    Extra Gain:230 m / 755 ft
    Distance:8.1 km / 5 mi
    Route:west
    Trailhead:near abandoned ski hotel structure  2346 m / 7697 ft
    Time Down:4 Hours 20 Minutes



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