Ascent of Mount Jefferson on 2011-07-07
|Others in Party:||Jared Wolcott|
|Date:||Thursday, July 7, 2011|
|Ascent Type:||Successful Summit Attained|
| Elevation:||10497 ft / 3199 m|
Ascent Trip ReportJuly 9, 2011 (exceptionally high snow year) Entire climbing route on snow, rime or ice.
Left car at Whitewater TH, Wednesday at 1:00 PM and hiked through mixed trail and snow to Scout Lake. Arrived at 4PM.
Left tent at 2:00AM, and ascended via snow fields to the lateral moraine below Jefferson Park Glacier and traversed to the North Ridge Route. Ascended snowfields and through the upper moats of the Whitewater Glacier to the false summit head wall. Climbed steep snow, crossing some trigger point avalanches running through 2-3 foot runnels. Climbed diagonally to the uppermost snow ridge just west of the false summit. After attaining the ridge, post-holed our way through multi-layered snow and ice to the summit block, often sinking into our waists.
The Summit Block
We roped up for two 80'pitches of rime, and one decent pitch of WI 2 staying as true as possible to the north ridge. The final fifty feet we broke out of the snow on the eastern face and scrambled up bare rock ramps to the summit at 11:00AM
After a perfectly clear day, cumulus clouds appeared around 10:00 and began to stack up on the western flanks of the mountain by 11:30. We descended our route using belays and upon reaching the top of the false summit faced winds of 50 miles per hour. Retracing our steps down the head wall we were engulfed in whiteout conditions with sleet and now 70mph winds. We only had about 400 feet to descend but we missed the proper chute and traversed too far to the west and found ourselves in the line of fire for horrendous sized rocks and sloughs. We retreated to the east, still hoping for a window in the clouds. We descended about 200 feet down the face and found ourselves blocked by enormous bergschrunds of the Jeff Park Glacier (still too far west). We retreated east and finally found our gully and descended into the fierce winds and blowing rocks to final few hundred feet to the North Ridge. We then dropped onto the Whitewater Glacier and traversed it to the North Ridge and descended to camp. 5:00PM
We made some tea, ate some food and put on dry clothes as we warmed up in our sleeping bags. Hiked to trail head in 2 hours
|Summary Total Data|
| Elevation Gain:||6397 ft / 1950 m|
| Route:||North Ridge|
| Trailhead:||whitewater trailhead 4100 ft / 1249 m|
| Quality:||10 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)|
| Route Conditions:||Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb, Ice Climb|
| Gear Used:||Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp|
| Nights Spent:||1 nights away from roads|
| Weather:||Hot, Extremely Windy, Partly Cloudy|
Hot most of the day, then extreme wind and whiteout conditions on descent. Some sleet.
| Time Up:||30 Hours |
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