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Ascent of Triglav on 1993-08-03

Climber: Greg Slayden

Date:Tuesday, August 3, 1993
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Triglav
    Location:Slovenia
    Elevation:2863 m / 9396 ft

Ascent Trip Report

I spent all day today climbing Triglav, a 2864 meter (9394 feet) peak that is the highest mountain in the Julian Alps, in Slovenia, and in all of what once was Yugoslavia. It is a massive peak of while dolomite, with the entire mountain seemingly consisting of one gigantic rock with no soil, boulders, or vegetation on it, and steep cliffs everywhere.

I left Aljazhev Dom at 6 AM, ascended the fantastically steep Tominshkova Ridge trail with hordes of other hikers, reached to top at about 11 AM, and descended on the absolutely steepest "trail" I have ever seen in my life, going down the Plemence Ridge. These trails were generously supplied with ladders, cables, and other aids, but on the Plemence their condition was appalling, and I basically had to do some class 4/low class 5 scrambling to get down. I returned to Aljazhev Dom at 4:30 PM after some boot-wrecking scree-skiing down from the col at the base of the Plemence. The 6065 vertical feet I climbed up and down was the most I had ever done in a single day.

It was a beautiful, sunny day, and I saw tons of other hikers on the mountain, mostly on the easier way up--most of the poor folks I passed on the Plemence were in way over their heads. I chatted with a Slovenian-American whose Harvard baseball cap caught my eye, and was amazed at the circus on the summit--vendors had hauled up cokes and beers to sell at outrageous prices, and a table was set up where some strange ritual was going on. Up top, and for the first part of the way down, I also talked to a friendly, handsome Slovenian couple whose English was good--they warned me about the Pelmence before bailing out.

Back at Aljazhev Dom I had to change my room to another one, and I spent the evening hanging out on the hut's porch talking to a couple of ex-pat Americans stationed in nearby Ljubljana. All in all, I enjoyed my day spent in Slovenia, impressed with the country and its people, and the war in nearby Bosnia seemed far away.

The white rock of Triglav shines with an almost unearthly light near sunset, as viewed from near the Alyazhev Dom hut (1993-08-03).
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:1849 m / 6067 ft
    Trailhead:1014 m / 3329 ft
    Grade/Class:3
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Scramble, Exposed Scramble



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