Ascent of Mount Shasta on 2010-06-13

Climber: Rob Hiemstra

Others in Party:SWS guide Brady; Adam
Date:Sunday, June 13, 2010
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Mount Shasta
    Elevation:14162 ft / 4316 m

Ascent Trip Report

Started out from Bunny Flats lot on Sat. June 12 at about 10 a.m., with team of 16 and 4 guides from SWS Mountain Guides, hiked through woods and up to just below Helen Lake. Four dropped out during initial hike.
Set up base camp early in the afternoon, slept from 1900 to midnight. Started hike up past Helen Lake, roped in for the Avalanche Gulch ascent. My son Adam returned to basecamp as he was experiencing AMS symptoms. Icefall was already starting, but light. Team member hit by ice ball; he slipped and struck my arm with a crampon, cutting my arm, but not seriously. I developed AMS headache and nausea as reaching the Thumb, but continued up Short Hill, Misery Hill, and across to the summit slope. Tom stopped at top of Short Hill due to foot and leg pain. Very difficult to climb while feeling lousy, and fatigued.
Summited around 1100 on June 13, then descended to Short Hill, roped in with team for Avalanche Gulch. Descended 2/3 of Gulch roped in, dodging icefall and rockfall on the way down. Guide Brady struck on head by large ice chunk, broke his helmet, sustained concussion. Small ice chunk hit me on left arm. Glissaded down to Helen Lake and walked to camp. Brady medevaced out by helicopter, but not severely injured.
Decamped and descended after brief rest to recuperate from AMS symptoms. Snow was slushy and every step sank knee-deep for the 5-mile+ hike back to Bunny Flats. Arrived about 1700 and drove down to Mount Shasta town to return rented gear.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:7212 ft / 2198 m
    Grade/Class:45 degrees
    Quality:9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Ski Poles, Guide, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:1 nights away from roads
    Weather:Cool, Windy, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:7212 ft / 2198 m
    Route:Avalanche Gulch
    Trailhead:Bunny Flats  6950 ft / 2118 m
    Time Up:1 Days 7 Hours 
Descent Statistics

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